Perch Lake Loop: A Quiet Gem in the Tararua Ranges

Most people who tramp in the Tararuas have walked Mt Holdsworth, traversed the Southern Crossing, or got pinned at Powell Hut for two extra nights. Far fewer have done the Perch Lake Loop — a two- or three-day route in the northern Tararuas that takes in tarns, beech forest, and one of the quietest huts in the range. We have done it three times now, in three weather extremes, and it remains a favourite.

Why the Tararuas earn their reputation#

The Tararuas sit between Wellington and the Manawatū, catching every weather system that rolls off the Tasman. The tops are notorious — wind, mist, and bog combine to produce conditions that have humbled experienced trampers. The flip side is that the lower forest is dense, mossy beech that genuinely feels like Lord of the Rings, and the rivers are clean enough to drink from.

The range punches well above its weight for closeness-to-population. From central Wellington you can be at a trailhead in 90 minutes. From Palmerston North, less.

The Perch Lake Loop — overview#

A 24 km loop starting and ending at the Putara Road End (north of Eketahuna). Two huts, one tarn, one bushline ridge.

• Day 1: Putara → Roaring Stag Lodge. 7 km, 3-4 hr. Bush all the way, river crossings, gentle climb.
• Day 2: Roaring Stag → Cattle Ridge Hut via Perch Lake. 12 km, 6-8 hr. The big day. Climb to Cleft Creek Saddle, sidle to Perch Lake, then up onto Cattle Ridge.
• Day 3: Cattle Ridge → Putara Road End. 5 km, 3-4 hr. Steep descent through bush.

Strong parties do it in two days by combining days 2 and 3. We do not recommend that in poor weather — Cattle Ridge is exposed tussock with limited shelter.

What makes Perch Lake worth the walk#

Perch Lake is a small tarn at about 1100 m, sitting in a basin below Cattle Ridge. There is no hut on the lake itself, but a flat grassy area on the eastern edge takes two or three tents in summer.

It is a place where, on a still evening, you can watch the cloud peel off Mt Bannister and hear nothing but ruru calling from the bush below. We have not seen another party at the lake on any of three visits.

The huts#

Roaring Stag Lodge (8 bunks) is one of the prettier huts in the southern North Island — built from milled beech, with a fireplace, a deck over the river, and a long-drop with a view. Bookings not required, just turn up with a hut ticket or Backcountry Pass.

Cattle Ridge Hut (4 bunks) is older, smaller, and on the bushline. Tank water depends on recent rain. The hut is a converted musterer's shelter and feels like it.

Safety note: Cattle Ridge in fog or rising wind is a real navigation problem. The route is poled but the poles can be hard to find in mist, and the ridge has bluffs to the south. Carry a compass and a printed map. If the cloud is on the tops when you reach Perch Lake, sleep there and reassess in the morning.

Water and resupply#

• Roaring Stag has river water below the hut.
• Perch Lake has tarn water (treat it).
• Cattle Ridge Hut has a tank — check it.

There is no resupply point on the loop. Carry everything in.

Best season#

October to April for ridge travel. May to September the tops can be in snow, and route-finding on Cattle Ridge becomes serious. Lower-altitude variations (Roaring Stag and out the way you came) are walkable year-round if you do not mind river crossings in winter flow.

Getting there#

• Trailhead: Putara Road End, end of Putara Road off SH2 north of Eketahuna.
• Nearest town: Eketahuna (15 minutes), Masterton (45 minutes), Wellington (2 hr).
• Public transport: None to the road end. You need a car or a kind friend.

What to pack that is Tararua-specific#

• Real waterproofs, top and bottom. Hardshell jacket and overpants. Not a poncho.
• Gaiters for the bog sections.
• A printed Topo50 map plus your phone GPS. The Tararua tops are not the place to lose battery.
• Extra food for one day. Most Tararua plans get extended by weather.

The Tararuas are not glamour country. They are working-class hills that demand a certain kind of competence in return for a certain kind of beauty. Perch Lake on a clear evening is one of the best rewards the range gives you. Come prepared.